Guadalupe Valley is the wine region you need to visit

Monte Xanic

I am a Baja adventurer, I have been my entire life. Searching for the perfect beach, two-lane highways, dirt roads and the best taco I can find is how my adventures usually begin. This road trip opened my eyes to a different side of Baja – the wine country, known as Valle de Guadalupe, is one of the most talked about wine regions lately. It’s located just 90 minutes south of the border from San Diego. Even if you don’t drink wine, the food scene is worth the trip. They have their own term for it – Baja Med – and when you are here you will understand why. 

There have been vines growing in Baja for a couple hundred years, when the missionaries who settled the peninsula planted them. I have driven through this area several times over the past decade, only stopping off to grab a quick bite on my way home, and each time I would notice a new hotel, restaurant or winery pop up along the highway – each with its own distinctive Mexican design. I have been wanting to hang out and explore the area to see what I have been missing. Boy oh boy have I missed a lot! 

Get ready to drink wine in the Guadalupe Valley.

Get ready to drink wine in the Guadalupe Valley.

My journey starts by crossing into Tijuana and making my way south toward Ensenada. There is an excellent four-lane toll road (about $5 all in, and yes, they take dollars) that runs south along the Pacific Ocean for about an hour. Then, follow the signs to La Ruta del Vino – yes, the wine route!

Oysters at Deckmans en el Mogor

Oysters at Deckmans en el Mogor

At the one and only traffic signal on the road into the valley, check out Tienda de Quesos y Vinos. The literal translation is ‘cheese and wine shop,’ and it’s full of local products like olive oils and jams, wines and an excellent assortment of fresh cheeses lined up for sampling. The Ramonetti cheese, made in a valley on the other side of Ensenada, is soft and creamy with hints of Parmesan or Romano flavors – I could not get enough of it. Located next door are Kikey’s bakery and Apple Pie Cafe. They both serve up coffee and snacks as well as an apple pie that is as round and big a soccer ball. I had NO IDEA apple pie was a thing here, but I do now. YUM!

Driving into and around the valley, there are only a couple paved roads. Most of the things to see and do are located on well-maintained dirt roads, so drive carefully. One thing that stands out is all the great signage along the roads leading to wineries, restaurants and hotels. Following the signs to Finca Altozano restaurant, I pull into a compound created by one of Mexico’s most famous and one of my favorite chefs, Javier Plascencia. He has chosen the perfect spot, located in the center of the valley, to set up his world. There are two restaurants: Finca Altozano, a beautiful indoor/outdoor space (the rib-eye cooked over hardwood and octopus was amazing) and Animalón, located underneath a 200-year-old oak tree, where you can experience the chef’s tasting menu or a la carte entrees for more fine dining.  

There is also Lupe! for more casual fare – tortas – served out of a vintage airstream. Plus, Ramonetti Heladería for ice cream. Additionally, part of the compound here is the six-room Hotel Partana, which combines modern architecture set inside the vineyard. Each room is complete with a king-size bed, floor-to-ceiling glass entry and rooftop deck with 360-degree views of the mountains and valley. It’s pretty cool to be able to buy a bottle of wine at dinner and walk back to your roof deck for incredible stargazing, then wake up and walk across the vineyard to get a cappuccino before you start your day!

The six-room Hotel Partana combines modern architecture with a vineyard.

The six-room Hotel Partana combines modern architecture with a vineyard.

There are well over 100 wineries in and around the valley that range from small family farms to Mexico’s biggest label LA Cetto and everything in between. On the weekends, many of the wineries are open the public, but it is best to make a reservation if you are serious about wine. 

I start my day grabbing breakfast at La Cocina de Doña Esthela. From what I’ve been told, what started off as one table has now grown to over 100 tables. I was fortunate enough to show up midweek and even then, there was a tourist bus from Ensenada that braved the mile-long dirt road for this special meal. I can say without a doubt my machaca con huevos was the best I’ve ever had! That and a cup of café de olla, and I’m ready for my day.

My first winery stop is Monte Xanic, one of the larger producers in the valley. I have had their wine in many restaurants around Mexico over the years. The tasting room is beautifully designed and covered in hemp rope. It overlooks their vineyards and the entire valley. The rosé and Gran Ricardo were my two favorites.  

Read the rest by heading over to DESERT magazine, part of the USA Today Network!

Fauna is a beautiful restaurant located at Bruma, a winery and small resort that will blow you away with its design.

Fauna is a beautiful restaurant located at Bruma, a winery and small resort that will blow you away with its design.