South Orange County: Explore San Clemente, Dana Point and more
Mission San Juan Capistrano (Photo: Kristin Scharkey)
There is a part of Orange County that has fascinated me every time I pass by on my way from LA to San Diego: the first time you see the Pacific Ocean heading south on Interstate 5. It has always been my favorite part of that drive, but I’d never stopped to check it out except to get some gas. I had no idea what I’d been missing. San Juan Capistrano, Dana Point and San Clemente have been there the whole time, begging for a road trip right in front of me.
I start the day in San Clemente, located at the southern tip of Orange County and known by locals as the “Spanish Village by the Sea.” My first stop is Casa Romantica, the original home of the city’s founder, Ole Hanson, to get a history lesson on the town’s origins. For a $5 admission fee, you can tour the classic Spanish Colonial home, which houses a small museum, gardens and art galleries. The property is used for events but is open year-round – the architecture and view alone are worth a stop.
Casa Romantica (Photo: Kristin Scharkey)
Next, I head to the San Clemente Pier to find The Fisherman’s Restaurant & Bar. Built as part of the pier over the crashing waves, it’s the perfect place to get the feel of this sleepy little beach town, watch some surfers and sip a few drinks at sunset. The pier is also an Amtrak stop, and you walk across the tracks to get to it. From here, you can mosey down the beach path alongside the trains to the surf breaks on the south end.
There are few cool hotels nearby as well: Beachcomber Inn overlooks the pier and has small Spanish tile roof casitas, while Nomads Hotel is a very cool, very small “surf” hotel with six rooms and bunkhouse. Nomads Canteen, located upstairs, is covered in surfboards and boasts 33 beers on tap. The menu is inspired by the owners’ travels; I recommend some poke.
San Clemente Pier (Photo: Kristin Scharkey)
Head up to Avenida Del Mar, and you’ll find that this is the town’s main street for shopping and eating. There is no shortage of restaurants in this city. I got so many recommendations from friends and locals that I have to go back to eat it all. To name a few: Brick for pasta and pizza, The Riders Club for burgers and beer, Cafe Rae for breakfast (it’s owned by a retired rock and roll tour caterer) and MRK Public for sandwiches and salads. There seems to be no shortage of surf shops either – one cool spot I found was menswear boutique Ambsn, a small store that shares space with Wake Up Coffee. Look for the eyeball to the right of the building on El Camino Real.
Mission San Juan Capistrano (Photo: Kristin Scharkey)
Driving north on Pacific Coast Highway along the beach, I leave San Clemente and head toward Dana Point. My first stop is Doheny State Beach. At the entrance is a small gift store and aquarium, which is very small but has a few fish tanks and a tide pool exhibit. The rangers and docents even give me the nickel tour, where I learn that this beach’s surf spot was made famous by the Beach Boys’ song,“Surfin ’U.S.A,”which includes a shoutout to Doheny Way. As you pull in, you can see plenty of surfers out in the water. The park offers day use and overnight camping, with several spots right on the beach for RVs or tents complete with fire rings and picnic tables. Who knew?!
Past the beach is Dana Point Marina. I’ve since learned that this is one of the best places in California to go whale watching. With grey whales in the winter and blues in the summer, the spot is often home to these mammals gathering rather close to shore. At the dock, there are several charters available for sport fishing and whale watching, in addition to the Catalina Express. Several small shops and restaurants are located in the marina, and one that catches my eye is Turk’s, a nautical themed classic – think dive bar meets greasy spoon, where one might order a Bloody Mary and fish ’n chips after a long night or a boat ride. Open from 7 a.m until after midnight, the decor and vibe can’t be beat.
At the north end of the marina is the Ocean Institute, which hosts school field trips during the week and is open for public tours of its tallship on Sundays. Walk toward the beach behind the buildings, and you’ll find a staircase to the right that leads to an awesome secret beach cove and natural tide pools. There is no sign, just follow your instincts – this was one of my favorite discoveries on this trip!
I continue north for my next stop, San Juan Capistrano, which is famous for its Spanish mission founded by Saint Junipero Serra in 1776. I park at the Capistrano train depot located in the center of old downtown, and everything I want to do from here is within walking distance.
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