Enjoy Santa Maria-style barbecue and wine on the Central Coast

IMG_0350-1-1140x700.jpg

This month, I head north to the central coast of California for some exploring, eating and drinking (not while driving!). Fall is a beautiful time of year to visit this unique part of California, about 30 minutes north of Santa Barbara. The inspiration for this road trip? A visit to a friend who moved up there to make wine, and then to a hotel owned by some other friends.

With the Pacific Ocean in my rearview, the 101 takes a turn into the rolling hills through a couple of tunnels, and just like that, the entire landscape changes. Grassy mountains, cattle ranches and oak trees line the highway, giving this part of California its own feel.

My first exit is to Highway 1, Pacific Coast Highway, California’s mother road. Here, it leaves the coast and winds its way through miles of fertile fields toward Lompoc. But before that, I make a side trip to Jalama Beach County Park.

Jalama State Beach

Jalama State Beach

One of the most remote and pristine beaches in the state, Jalama is worth the trip if you have the time. There’s great camping on the beach, RV spots and they even have a few cabins for rent! Plus, there’s excellent hiking, surfing and beachcombing to be had here, but many often visit the Jalama Beach Store & Grill for the World Famous Jalama Burger and a picnic on the beach.

The grill serves up breakfast, lunch and early dinner, and the store is well stocked with everything you need, from bait and tackle to an excellent wine selection. If you plan to stay the night, reservations are essential and easily made online.

Back on the road north toward Lompoc, my next stop is La Purisima Mission State Historical Park.

California mission

California mission

I love the California missions, and this one is far and away my favorite. Founded in 1787, the mission was home to the Chumash Indians and Spanish settlers. Now a state park, it has been restored over the past 80 years. You can walk into most of the buildings and really get a feel of what is was like to live and work there in the early 1800s. The hacienda, barracks and huge looms in the weaving room were my personal favorites. Even the surrounding grounds and paths around the mission are dirt trails and very rustic. They have about 25 miles of hiking trails, an excellent visitor center and a gift shop that offers guided tours and demonstrations of life at the mission. I honestly can’t wait to go back and explore more.

For an off-the-beaten-path side trip, make your way west to the coast to the Rancho Guadalupe Dunes Preserve. These dunes stretch 18 miles north to Pismo Beach. This area is great for sunsets, hiking, and bird and whale watching. The 1923 film “The Ten Commandments” was shot here and the sets were buried in the dunes. Several artifacts have been found over the years, and you can check out pieces of a full-size sphinx in the Dunes Center museum.

Frank Ostini, owner and chef of The Hitching Post II in Buellton, not only offers Santa Maria barbecue but also an excellent selection of wine.

My next stop is to get some Santa Maria-style barbecue in, you guessed it, Santa Maria. Located on the 101, this historic cattle town is home to its own regional cuisine. There have been cattle ranches in these parts since the 1800s and, as you can see, there are still many of them around. Vast open ranges of grassland make for some happy cows.

There are a few things I’ve learned about what makes this barbecue unique to California. First, the way it is cooked: over an open flame of native coastal oak or “red oak” on an iron grate that can be raised or lowered over the fire, just like the rancheros did back in the day. Second is the meat: tri-tip is preferred but all steaks prepared this way work, seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic salt. Next on the essentials list is the bowl of pinquito beans – grown in the region, they’re a cross between a pink and white bean – and a bowl of salsa, not spicy. Every place I went to (and I went to a few!) had its own recipe, plus a loaf of French bread. And that is Santa Maria barbecue!

Places that are a must try: Shaw’s Steakhouse for the tri-tip sandwich; Jocko’s in Nipomo for an old-school meal that includes salad, garlic bread, steak (or whatever), baked potato, and either bread pudding or a scoop of sherbet, all for about $30. And then there is The Hitching Post in Casmalia, a real cowboy joint, or The Hitching Post II in Buellton for their own great wines and grilled artichokes. Finally, the Far West Tavern in Orcutt offers an upscale menu with prosciutto wrapped jalapenos. There are several more places along the central coast, from Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo, to try this specialty, and I am pretty sure you will be back for more.

Read the rest by heading over to DESERT magazine, part of the USA Today Network!

Pea Soup Andersen’s

Pea Soup Andersen’s