Julian is the 'apple pie' capital of California
Julian was built around gold mining in the late 1800s. At Eagle Mining Co., owned and operated by its founder's grandsons, take a tour through a 1,000-foot tunnel and get a feel for what it was like to be a miner in the olden days.
Any time I mention this little historic town, the first thing I hear is “the apple pie place!” Yes, Julian is world-famous for its sweet apple pastries (and orchards). But there is much more to Julian than meets the pie — and it starts with the road to get there.
Located about 90 minutes from the Coachella Valley, Julian is a historic gold mining town that invited the biggest — albeit, short-lived — gold rush in Southern California in the 1870s. This cool mountain town is a great getaway filled with history.
Heading south on Palms to Pines Highway, I make a left onto Route 371 into the Anza valley, and then drive 20 miles until it ends at Highway 79. (A right turn would take me to Temecula, but that’s another road trip.) Making another left, I head into the shadow of Palomar Mountain and along the historic Butterfield Overland Stagecoach line, passing olive orchards and large ranches.
I am now in what is called the North Mountain Wine Trail, aptly named after the surrounding vineyards. I stop for a tasting at Hawk Watch Winery, owned and operated by Mike and Lisa Schnell. They do all of the work themselves here, from growing and picking to barreling and bottling. (The result prompts me to buy four bottles on my way out!) During Daylight Savings, the winery — a rustic barn with a cozy front porch and rows of grapes at every view — hosts live music Sundown Sessions on Friday nights (hawkwatchwinery.com). This is just a sample of what the area offers, so stop into others if you have the time — just make sure you have a designated driver!
Continuing through Warner Springs, I am now only 20 miles from Julian. Cruising by the pastures of Warner Ranch, I come upon Sky Sailing gliderport, where adventurous patrons are being propelled into the air by a plane. I consider a ride for a minute, but don’t want to lose my appetite for apple pie!
Highway 79 ends in the village of Santa Ysabel. It houses one of Julian Pie Company’s larger shops, as well as the Santa Ysabel Store — my idea of a fun stop. Built in 1884, this big white brick building offers a variety of antiques on one side, and a general store complete with housewares and crafts and foodstuffs and books on the other.
I make one more stop on the way, to the tiny town of Wynola. This area offers some good antiquing, too (I like a place called The Barn, which has some great finds that are really nicely displayed), but I’m here for lunch at Jeremy’s on the Hill. A local favorite, it’s owned by Jeremy Manley, a young chef who grew up cooking with his grandmother and who is as passionate about where his ingredients come from as he is about the presentation — almost everything here is local, sustainable and fresh, folks. I bite into the bison burger with pulled pork (sourced from a bison ranch in Santa Ysabel and a pig farm in Julian, respectively) and a plate of crispy charred Brussels sprouts. Mention Desert magazine on your visit, and he’ll give you a free order! The wine list features several locally made wines and the dessert list is tempting — but I want to save room for lots of pie, so I skip it this time (jeremysonthehill.com).
Julian sits at 4,400 feet, and is one of the few places in Southern California that experience all four seasons. Historically, apple harvest happens in October, which is why I chose the destination for this issue. Unfortunately, climate change is making that happen as early as August now, so the apples are likely to be all picked by the time you arrive this fall. However, I’m quick to realize after talking with locals on this trip that Julian is a great place to visit any time of year. Come in late summer to gather apples; hike, horseback ride, go antiquing and wine and cider tasting in the fall; cozy up in a cabin with warm apple pie in the colder months; and for the daffodils and other blossoms in the spring. The town hosts festivals throughout the year to cater to most of the activities, too.
Julian’s roots date back to the 1860s, when a few Confederate veterans moved west to find their fortune. Local museums and several markers along the streets tell the story of missionaries of the 1800s and the Butterfield Stage Line and the Union Army during the Civil War, among other significant historical events.
Downtown Julian is a strip about five blocks long with old-timey cottages and eateries and shops. It’s charming and rustic and feels like a step back in time, or at least far away from home. The best way to explore it, obviously, is by foot. I’m ready for some coffee and pie, but want to taste one I haven’t tried before. Every place in town advertises itself as “Julian’s Best Pie!” so the only way to know for sure is to try them all. I walk by a cute old café with a patio called Candied Apple. Sounds like a sweet start to me — and it gets a two-thumbs up with its flaky, done-just-right crust and fresh, semi-tart apple filling. It’s got a hint of salt and the apples taste natural — no artificial goopy additives. Looking at the selection here, I learn about the many different ways you can do apple pie — traditional pastry top, crumb top, apple sour cream top, and a la mode (or just “ala” as they call it here), to name a few. If you’re not a fan of apples but still find yourself in this apple-centric town, there also are berry and other in-season fruit options to try.
I walk my pie off along the Main Street, window-shopping and sightseeing and keeping an eye out for my next pie stop. The history of the town is evident in the centuries-old buildings and homes, all worth admiring on a stroll.
Next I head to Volcan Mountain Winery and U-Pick Apple Orchards, about five minutes outside of town and across the lane from each other. Along the way, I have to stop for a family of wild turkeys crossing the street. Watch out for squirrels and chipmunks and deer on these back roads. I grab a few apples that are left on the vines ($10 gets you a full bag) and hop over to the winery for another tasting. Owner and winemaker Jim Hart grew up in Temecula and comes from a family of winemakers, and just bought this property last year. (The former owner, well known in these parts, passed away recently.) I’ve come at a lucky time when the grapes have just been pressed, so I’m able to try the wine before it’s even poured into barrels. I’m surprised by the sweetness at this early stage, and can’t wait to try it in a year or two! Jim has a private orchard on the property, and plans to make apple wine this season.
Next door is Menghini Winery, Julian’s oldest winery. Check out the rustic property while you’re up here — an old pickup truck marks the entrance — and stop into the tasting room downtown if you wish. I’ve had enough wine for one day, so I’ll save this for my next visit.
The downtown neighborhoods are filled with cute bed and breakfasts and houses cottages to rent. If a vintage trailer or Airstream is your style, Pinecrest Retreat is for you, complete with a community pool and yoga center. If a historic feel is what you’re after, stay right in town at The Julian Hotel.
Check out julianca.com, a great resource for everything in the area, plus places to stay overnight.
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