Puerto Peñasco: Escape to beachfront living and coastal cuisine

Puerto Peñasco, or Rocky Point on the Sea of Cortez, is just four hours away from Phoenix.

Puerto Peñasco, or Rocky Point on the Sea of Cortez, is just four hours away from Phoenix.

When you think about the landlocked state of Arizona, the beach really doesn’t come to mind, does it? Sure, there are some fancy resorts that have a beach-type pool, or maybe the shore along the Colorado River chain of lakes, but this month’s road trip took me to Puerto Peñasco, or Rocky Point on the Sea of Cortez. This small town is just four hours away from Phoenix, as a matter of fact! And it is the most beautiful, clear, clean ocean beach I have found without having to get on an airplane!

The best way I have found to drive there is through Mexicali: From Palm Desert, it takes about five-and-a-half hours (including a stop for some tacos!). Google Maps is an excellent navigator, taking you through Mexicali and some farm towns to the newer coastal route that ends at Puerto Peñasco. The drive crosses over the Colorado River before it empties into the Gulf of California, and then through some sandy dunes with mountain and sea vistas. There is a small fishing village, El Golfo de Santa Clara, which has a gas station if you need. I have explored it a few times but never really found anything to come back for.  

After a couple hours through the desert, a skyline of tall buildings emerges on the horizon as I near my destination, and it is quite different from what I have come to expect from a remote Mexican beach town. Passing a large windmill, I make my way to the Sandy Beach area where all the resorts are. Located a few miles from downtown, Sandy Beach is the first certified “clean” beach in the Mexican state of Sonora and does not disappoint. 

The resorts here are condo/hotel-style rentals with ocean view balconies, kitchens and laundry rooms. They are excellent for families or groups of friends who want an affordable stay. Prices range from $100 on up per night. The Sonoran Resorts are my personal favorite, as all the units are within 100 yards of the water. Each has its own front desk and an onsite restaurant/bar – some even have swim up bars in the pool! The spas and grounds are meticulously maintained. The Sonoran Spa was the first one built in 2001 and, since then, they have added the Sonoran Sea, Sun and Sky.

A shrimp boat in Puerto Peñasco

A shrimp boat in Puerto Peñasco

I made a new friend when I booked my room online. Denise Ackerly runs paradiseinpenasco.com, which is easy to navigate and full of all the information you need before driving here. After I called to find out more, we hit it off with our love of Mexico. Denise and her husband discovered Rocky Point in 2012 and ended up buying a place of their own. They rent it out when they go home to the states, and she was able to turn it into a business renting out other condos. Best of all, when you call she helps figure out what is best for you or your family. I like good service. And YES, I’ve been thinking about buying a condo there every day since I have been back! Errrr.

Check-in is easy at the front desk of the Sonoran Sun. Condo 801e has a balcony that wraps around the building for a 180-degree view of the beach. No sooner did I put my things down did I get my trunks on and head to the beach. The sand is perfect as is the water – crystal clear, no waves or rocks, and warm! Perfect for kids, and me, too! The water temperature here in the summer can reach up to 90 degrees and it slowly cools down into December, making a fall visit the perfect time of year to chase the endless summer and avoid the crowds. There are vendors on the beach that offer massages, piña coladas and more – best of all, they do not hassle you.

A man and his oyster

A man and his oyster

I’m off to explore the “touristy” part of town – the Malecon, which is basically a seaside “boardwalk” in Latin American countries. I make my way downtown and grab some lunch at Mariscos El Calamar Gigante (the Giant Squid) after a tip from the front desk. This place is so good, I end up coming back three times for the clam cocktails served in their giant shells, and shrimp tacos – my favorite. Past the port full of shrimp boats, the docks are lined with pescaderias, or fish markets. Stop into any one of them for all kinds of fresh shrimp in different sizes, as well as other fish and seafood. It’s easy and cheap to buy a big bag and cook in your condo!

Read the rest by heading over to DESERT magazine, part of the USA Today Network!

A clam coctel

A clam coctel

Rick. the churro guy!

Rick. the churro guy!

There are many places to rent ATVs, and Rick Marino rented one to explore Cholla Bay to the north.

There are many places to rent ATVs, and Rick Marino rented one to explore Cholla Bay to the north.

MexicoKristin Scharkey